Football hooliganism in the 1970s and 80s coincided with the surge in popularity of the skinhead subculture, who were hard to miss on the terraces due to their unmistakable style and mass popularity.

Originating in London in economically-depressed working class neighbourhoods, the skinheads formed as a result of blue collar pride and a feeling of societal isolation and neglect. Skinheads rejected the counterculture movement; they were a motley crew that preferred a pint to a joint and a football match to a psychedelic rock festival.

The uniform of the skinhead was simple. Aggressively masculine. The young men had buzzed heads, and donned Ben Sherman button down shirts and skinny jeans held up by braces, often rolled up to ensure their Doc Martens were on full display. 

Skinheads took great influence from West Indian immigrants, and it was ska music, a fuse of reggae and heavy brass instruments, that filled the dancehalls at the time. 

“Skinhead Moonstompy” was a hit song by ska band Syramip, with lyrics “I want all you skinheads to get up to your feet, put your braces together and your boots on your feet, and give me some of that old moonstomping.” The song so perfectly encapsulates the fusion of Jamaican and British culture that we can almost ignore the fact they rhymed feet with feet. Almost.

It didn’t take long for political divisions and conflicting interests within the skinheads to arise, and by the early seventies they had generated themselves a nasty reputation. Whilst the early skinheads were nonpolitical, as time passed some got drawn into anti-immigrant nationalist groups, and violence and racial attacks became common, leading to a climate of intimidation and fear on the streets.

However, it was the football terraces that saw the most skinhead brutality, and in a way it was sort of healthy. Football offered a place of belonging and self expression for these working class men, and they saw the opportunity for a punch up with rival fans as an addictive drug and a way to let off steam.

Chelsea FC, local to the birth of the skinheads in the capital, have had plenty of interrelation with skinhead culture and fashion. The famous “Liquidator” sung by the Blues before kick-off at Stamford Bridge was produced by Jamaican reggae instrumental band Harry J Allstars. 

Photographer and lifelong Chelsea fan John Ingledew has been photographing the terraces for over fifty years, and witnessed first hand the growth and the death of skinhead style at British football matches, and what arose as a result.

“When I photographed in the Shed Terrace at Chelsea in 1982 it was all young lads, mostly from South London wearing Levis or Wrangler jeans and jackets, or Crombies with Doc Martens boots. The skinhead look.”

“My take on it was the skinhead look waned due to police clampdown. A cropped close head was easy to spot and had become synonymous with football violence, and it had become a pain for many with the look as they were constantly stopped and searched by police. This new evolved ‘casual’ look put an end to this harassment.”

As skinhead presence on the terraces subsided, casual style and fashion well and truly skyrocketed.